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- <text id=91TT0781>
- <title>
- Apr. 15, 1991: Six Days with the Kurds
- </title>
- <history>
- TIME--The Weekly Newsmagazine--1991
- Apr. 15, 1991 Saddam's Latest Victims
- </history>
- <article>
- <source>Time Magazine</source>
- <hdr>
- WORLD, Page 24
- Six Days with the Kurds
- </hdr><body>
- <p>A TIME correspondent is on hand as the embattled rebels fight,
- then becomes part of a tidal flight to safety
- </p>
- <p>By James Wilde/Altun Kupri
- </p>
- <p> The preparations for the battle begin at 6 a.m. at the
- only gas station operating in Erbil. Hundreds of vehicles line
- up to be filled: trucks, jeeps, Hondas, Toyotas, school buses,
- ambulances, three-wheelers. The uprising is at risk. Saddam's
- best troops have launched a five-pronged offensive backed by a
- panoply of modern weapons and troops who never took part in the
- gulf war.
- </p>
- <p> By evening the sun is boiling red, but the wind is cool.
- The men become silent. It is the moment of peace before the
- carnage, and the peshmerga savor these remaining minutes. In
- only a few hours, many of them will be dead or wounded. But they
- grin fiercely, and one fighter with mustaches that stretch
- inches from either side of his face barks, "I will use these to
- strangle Saddam!"
- </p>
- <p> By nightfall the long file of vehicles, most plastered
- with mud as camouflage, departs with machine guns poking
- through the windshields and horns blaring. The men burst into
- song, raising their fists and waving their weapons, their faces
- beaming, their eyes aflame.
- </p>
- <p> The motley convoy stops before the small town of Altun
- Kupri, 25 miles from Kirkuk, and everyone jumps out. A truck
- with a flat tire zooms by from the direction of the city
- carrying wounded. One can smell the odor of burned flesh as it
- passes. As the twilight gathers, Abdul Rahman Aju Ali, 54, a
- barrel-shaped man with fierce eyes, explains, "We will attack
- at night."
- </p>
- <p> Suddenly the lookout on the hill yells, "Helicopters!
- Helicopters!" There are seven of them, all firing rockets. There
- is incoming artillery fire:
- Boom-whistle-bang-boom-whistle-bang-boom-whistle-bang. What
- follows is a mad melee of men scattering like quicksilver into
- gullies, ditches, crevices, behind hillocks, into hollows. The
- peshmerga are helpless before these gunships, but it is not for
- want of trying. They tear open with everything they have:
- antiaircraft guns, rockets, small arms, machine guns, even
- mortars. But their fire is confused and disorganized. The
- "damnation birds" keep wheeling around and coming back,
- untouchable.
- </p>
- <p> The night mercifully hides the dusty smoke of artillery.
- Three 175-mm field guns are outlined against the full-moon sky
- with piles of shells beside them and peshmerga pulling the
- lanyards. The subsequent roar deafens the ears with the sound
- of a thousand church bells ringing. Then a moment of magic
- silence, and somewhere a night bird's lilting song brings out
- the stars. God knows why.
- </p>
- <p> In Erbil one sees why everybody is fleeing. The giant
- mosaic portrait of Saddam on the outskirts of town is riddled
- with bullet holes. The Kurdish parliament building is also
- trashed and gaping with shell holes. No one knows what is going
- on, but everyone is catching fright, which soon sweeps the city
- as it is doing in all the other towns. On a street corner,
- Kurds have a snowball fight with snow out of a truck brought
- down from the mountains for drinking water. A young girl
- wandering in a yard hands the visitor a message. "For my brother
- in London, Ontario, Canada," she says. "Tell my brother Narwan
- we are very well."
- </p>
- <p> There is only one road left going west on which to escape.
- Way up in the Korak mountains, the refugees are still far away
- from it. The full moon turns everything to silver. The stars
- are blue ice. Ali Hussein Haji's family lays out the best
- blankets, trimmed with gold and silver, on feather mattresses.
- They produce the remaining food in the tiny hamlet for the
- visitors to eat. "Don't worry, we will survive," says Haji.
- "We've been surviving for centuries." He uses the last of his
- gas to accompany us to the next bridge, and has to walk back 12
- miles to his village.
- </p>
- <p> Mohammed the driver chases all over Zakhu for gas to reach
- the Tigris crossing into Syria. Arriving near the river,
- everyone gets out and walks, then runs to avoid incoming shells
- that land every two minutes to interdict supplies crossing over
- the water from Syria, just a few thousand feet across the
- rushing brown flood. Piles of 220-lb. bags of flour are stacked
- on the bank.
- </p>
- <p> Mohammed stands out in the river, braving the shelling and
- the mines to scream for the boats on the Syrian side to come
- over. They finally do so. He waves goodbye as the boat crosses
- to Syria and safety, with shells plopping in the water
- harmlessly behind it. They sink the next boat that tries to
- cross.
- </p>
- <p> What will happen to Mohammed, his wives and children? What
- will be the fate of all those thousands of refugees? What will
- happen to the Kurds left behind? They are staying on to fight
- and to try to save those who can be saved. And to bury those who
- can't. Once again the Kurds are facing a tragedy and a betrayal.
- Another uprising has been crushed, and this time almost the
- entire Kurdish nation is on the run.
- </p>
-
- </body></article>
- </text>
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